Camino Portuguese and Camino Finesterre June 2016

Camino Portuguese and Camino Finesterre June 2016

Another adventure to look forward to.
Anna and I are off again this year after our adventure on the Via Baltica and Scandinavica in 2015. Perhaps it is fair to say Anna has developed a liking to these kind of meanderings....
Here is a map of the 2 routes we will be combining starting off at the end of May. We fly into Lisbon and look forward to 4 days of exploring this city steeped in history and culture. Then a train ride to Porto where we have 2 days of sightseeing before setting off on foot to Santiago de Compostella about 250 km and Santiago de Compostella to Muxua about 120 km.
On the Camino Portugues, described by the author of our guidebook, John Brierley as the most significant and soulful route we look forward to traveling back in time to pagan, Roman and Christian roots.
The Camino Finesterre takes us to the "end of the world" along a road less travelled, where there is time for space, rest and reflection before returning home via Madrid, where we meet up with Anna's daughter Megan for 3 days.
We will be away for just over one month.

I took this picture in 2006 at the end of my first Camino, the now famous Camino Frances when I walked from Roncesvalles on the French/Spanish border to Santiago de Compostela, a 750 km or so trail. A fellow pilgrim and I hired a car and drove to Finesterre. This time we will go on foot.

28.05.2016
They say it's a small world but, having spent the past 36 hours travelling half way across it, I am not sure I agree anymore. Auckland, Hong Kong, Zurich, Madrid and finally Lisbon - we are so over planes and airports. Settled into a quaint little apartment in the old part of town, did some exploring and sampling of the local cuisine. Now need to sleep 😴

Breakfast anyone? Just spotted the local panificadora across the street from our lounge window.


29.05.2016 
This city is a cardio workout. Up and down the 7 hills it is built on. We have walked 15 km so far today through city streets. Lisbon is incredibly confusing to navigate at first...perhaps it is just the jetlag. A few pics follow. 

Sampled the local cuisine with my brother , who flew in from Germany. Tiny snails, tuna and octopus. 

30.5.2016:

Another day spent exploring this labyrinth of a city. The Portuguese are so friendly and welcoming. Beautification Lisbon style. Again in our direct neighbourhood. The barber Antonio Gato is a true expert who featured on YouTube after the death of the actor Nicolau. He had been his barber for 25 years.

Bacalhau, salted codfish from Norway for sale all over Portugal and Galicia. More than 300 hundred ways to prepare the fish. We tried but 2 or 3....

31.5.2016 and 1.6.2016

Omg. Just arrived in Porto our starting point for walking to Santiago. It is unbelievably beautiful and simple to get around. The apartment we booked is incredible for Euro 50 per night. Right by the heart of the old town.

Boiling hot. After a 3.5 hour interesting but exhausting walking tour of old Porto we sampled the finest Port Ramon Pinto Port Cellars. The 20 year old drop caused extreme leglessness and we returned to our lodgings for a nap. Our tour guide Anna ( not Kenna) was taught by J.K. Rowling, who was known as an ill tempered woman who would alternate between screaming abuse at pupils and collegues and bursting into wailing tearful displays of emotion. She claims to have written Harry Potter at the Majestic Cafe. ( very elegant, but we were not suitably dressed in our pilgrim clothes to venture inside.)

We got our pilgrim passports stamped and called in at the local market. Taking advantage of a washing machine to start off with pristine clothes and tomorrow our pilgrimage begins.

2.6.2016 

Porto to Lavra/Angeiras 24.5 kms.

Left Porto today on first leg of our walk. Along the coast, past golden beaches, mainly on board walks. Met some fellow pilgrims on the way to Santiago, including German father and son Wolfgang and Mario. Lovely guys. Accommodation tonight in a compact little chalet in camping ground in a fishing village where a number of small restaurants grill freshly caught fish on outdoor grills. Naturally we had fish for dinner as the local cats hung around expectantly.

3.6.2016

Angeiras to Vila da Conde 12.5 km. You are kidding me? More like 16.

Passing the harbour as we leave Angeiras. Fishing provides the livelihood of this coastal village. The faces of weathered seafarers in abundance. Watched the boats coming in before heading off on our second day. Breakfast of large mug of coffee and local cinnamon cake only 1.40 €.Boardwalks all the way. Much cooler and overcast but no rain. Tired today as I did not sleep well in the stuffy cabin. Watching the fishing boats come in and the rocky coastline were a highlight. I chose not to photograph the ugly modern settlements to our right....

Landed in a sweet bed and breakfast by the river. Eva Doce Guesthouse. Euro 39 for 2 including bfast. I mention prices for our pilgrim friends. They like to know these things...

4.6. 2016:

Vila de Conde to Pedra Furada 23 kilometers.

Hugging stone walls for fear of being run down by cars will be the enduring memory of this trip. From the coast we went inland into the rural hinterland with accompanying smells of silage and dairying. Some pretty countryside, some eucalyptus forest but typically no pedestrian walks so you have to mix it with the traffic, necessitating occasionally spontaneously hugging a stone wall and breathing in or leaping into concrete channels as the on-coming traffic whizzes past with narry an ease off the accelerator. Highlight of the walk was the historic town centre of Rates. Our accommodation tonight is at Antonia's restaurant, where the food is reputed to be superb.

5.6.2016:

Pedro Furada to Barcelos via Quinta da Franqueira 14 km

Today included our first climb and descent of note. Through Eucalyptus forests. Much of the route remains on minor roads and overall too much urban walking for our taste. So far this does not prove to be a nature walk, but we knew that before we left. Barcelos is heaving with a Medieval festival and it is very hot with temperatures in the high 20's.

 Remember the chicken story from Santo Domingo de La Calzada on my first Camino? Strangely Barcelos shares the same story. In a nutshell the roasted chickens on the mayors dining table jump back to life as proof that a young man was innocently hanged as the result of being accused of stealing by a Belle who did not like being rejected by the lad. So St James came to the rescue and the lad miraculously survived the rope.

6.6.2016:

Barcelos to Lugar do Cordo 20 kms

Got on the road early to get the walk over before the heat of the day. Mostly cobbled roads and tar seal underfoot and quite populated although thankfully punctuated by vineyard and rural vistas. This route is remarkably well signposted. Yellow arrows telling you where to go and even crosses indicating where not to go! You'd have to be in a state of deep meditation or blind to miss them. We are a 
staying in Casa de Fernanda tonight, a Portuguese private home with outhouses for pilgrims on the property. Some Germans, a Romanian and a couple of woman from Porto here. 

7.6.2016: 

Lugar do Condo to Ponte de Lima 15 km.

After a warm farewell with Fernanda and her husband we set off in glorious sunshine. We are amazed at the commitment and generositiy shown by people like Fernanda and her husband. Fernanda helped one woman piglrim 18 years ago and this has led to a stream of dozens of pilgrims filling her home over a 6 to 8 month period of the year. They put on dinner each night and the wine flows freely. You leave a donation in the morning. 2 people had walked off without leaving any money and Fernanda was very hurt. She said it tore at her heart. We spent days speculating as to who it might have been and as we kept on bumping into people who had stayed there with us, we placed everyone under suspicion...in the end we deduced the likely culprits. Such action has a huge ripple effect on the pilgrim community quite aside from the host. The only thought I had, was that perhaps someone had put the money into the letterbox and Fernanda had not checked there...we will never know I guess..
At last we are away from traffic and in a much more rural setting. Glorious weather and the countryside is very pretty.
We met Helga from Germany again. She had stayed at Fernanda's too. At 75 she is spending 5 months on the pilgrim trail. She is tiny, has huge bunions and a huge pack. At first she seemed rather turse but as the evening at Casa Fernanda progressed and the wine flowed she softened noticeably. 

We loved our digs at Ponte de Lima, Mercearia, once a grocer shop, now a small B and B.

8.6. 2016:

Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes 20 km 

May not sound like a great distance but our walk today took us through the Labruja valley, through pretty rural country to the high pass through a mountain ridge - 405m at its highest point. Saw a snake along the way. Temps of 30+ today made it quite a slog and needed to have plenty of water on board. Thankfully there were fonts of clean and natural drinking water along the way.

Great respect for the cyclists who had to carry their bikes over the bouldery bits.

Staying in pilgrim's accommodation tonight. Thankfully our own bunk room. Our penultimate night in Portugal before crossing to Spain.

9.6.2016:

Rubiaes to Valenca 17 km.
Another nice walking day. Not so steep and not so hot. After damp and moldy smelling lodgings last night we have struck gold. Lovely room in a small pension with views of the town walls. Quiet and pristine and only 5 Euros each more than last night...

                                                                                       10.6.16:

Valenca to O' Porrino 20 km.
Our feet are throbbing and tender tonight. For the first time the walk seemed endless. We lost one hour due to the time difference between Portugal and Spain and arrived after 4 pm. Where did the day go? 
After leaving the fortified town of Valenca we crossed the bridge into Spain. It was designed by a pupil of Eiffel.
We had a wonderful breakfast. A new cafe in Tui, very pilgrim oriented served delicious Bircher Muesli and freshly squeezed orange juice.
The pilgrim numbers have exploded and those who have not booked ahead are out of luck tonight. They have to taxi elsewhere.
Just did our laundry and sitting on balcony resting our aching feet.

11.6.2016: 

O Porrino to Cesantes 19 kms

The route is getting busier as we near Santiago. Lots of Portuguese and Spanish walkers who are undertaking what is a popular 'local' walk to Santiago. Then there are the cyclists in abundance as cycling is a huge pastime/sport in Portugal and Spain. This species takes the sport seriously - all clad in colourful Lycra, often with a support vehicle a la Tour de France. For walkers, they can be a bit of a menace. We have dubbed them the 'wasps' as they tend to swarm past with a buzz of rotating pedals and gears and loud babble. Their free-wheeling descent down steep hills is quite terrifying. Also a lot of what we call 'lite' pilgrims on this route, notably a group of Irish and Germans who are part of organised tours and have their bags ferried ahead.

Lots of road walking today with the occasional rural vista.

With apologies to the Spanish, we are finding Spain a little shabby compared to Portugal.

12.6.2016:

Cesantes to Pontevedra 18 km.
Cloudy and a little cool today.
Last night we had to sleep with the enemy. 8 cyclist portuguese men in our dormitory. Anna's theory " skinny men don't snore" was proven wrong....after they finally settled to bed around 1 am the loud chatter over numerous bottles of wine was replaced by a concert from air being inhaled and expelled through their nasal passages.
We were off at 7.15 am after a breakfast of white toast and jam. The German hospitalero made a strong cup of coffee to go with it.
Nice walking today, quiet and peaceful, apart from the pilgrim hordes. We followed an alternative route leading into Pontevedra along a stream. An eco project. Absolutely lovely. The water was pristine and clear and the fact that otters have adopted the space is an indication of the water quality.
Pontevedra looks old and interesting and brilliant, our accommodation is pretty rough though. Not one of my better choices.

Freezing cold tonight in Pontevedra. Rain forecast for tomorrow. Fantastic dinner of razor clams, octopus and scallops. Oops I knocked over the bottle of alvarinho wine. Almost full, what a waste.

13.6.2016:

Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 22.5kms
Struck rain for the first time today but had cleared by the time we reached our destination. Some pretty rural countryside, vineyards and natural paths. Rarely alone now as steady trickle of pilgrims tread the trail with Santiago on their sights. For the second day a little dog turned up at a cafe we stopped at. Unbelievably cute and rewarded for his visit with tidbits. 
We were pleasantly surprised by our accommodation here in Caldas de Reis. Thought we'd booked a bunk room with shared facilities but have a twin hotel room with own bathroom - all for 12.50 Euros each.

Caldas de Reis is a spa town. Our feet could not resist taking the waters. Hot and soothing.

A french father on the trail with 2 young children. They are keeping pace with us and sleep out or in municipal albergues.
Watched Spain playing the Czech team in the European soccer Champs over some light refreshments. Pimentos de Padron and calamari.

14.6.2016:

Caldas de Reis to Padron 19.6 km
Oh oh, the rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia.
Drizzle followed by rain and a cold wind. Nice countryside and soft paths. Tomorrow our last day into Santiago is the longest walking day of 27 km and the forecast is for heavy thunderstorms and rain with flash flooding. Our punishment for decided lack of godliness. 
In the meantime we are luxuriating in a Medieval pousada I managed to get at a bargain price on booking.com
Very comfortable after a day in the wet.

15.6.2016: 

Padron to Santago 26.6 kms
Finally arrived in Santiago on a wet, wet day. Bit of a mission. Rained off and on all day and was a long, squelchy trudge. Wasn't helped by Anna getting hopelessly lost coming into the city and walking an extra 5 kms. By the time she got to our rendezvous point, a locaI restaurant, for which we had a voucher, she was fed up indeed and gulped down a consoling glass of wine. I arrived and we eventually got the obligatory photo in the deserted and rainswept Plaza Obradeiro. Over a 1,090 pilgrims arrived yesterday from various points but only a handful were visible In the normally crowded square today.

So Santiago done! Yet to get the teeshirt.

As I write, from the comfort of our fabulous apartment, in the heart of the old town the rain is still pelting down. Despite this, will venture into the city for a celebratory dinner shortly.

16.6. 2016 and 17.6. 2016 Santiago:

Better weather today. Attended the mass at the cathedral complete with Butafumeiro. They have the service down to a fine art. My husband refers to it as "theatre".
Called in at Casa Ivar. Ivar Rekve , Norwegian in origin created the Camino de Santiago Forum, which is an unparalleled resource for pilgrims and runs a luggage storage service and pilgrim online shop in Santiago.

I am a veteran forum member by now, not because of my age..

Serendipity and synchronicity. Cousin Malcolm Harre overlapped in Santiago with us for 1 night after walking from Lisbon to Santiago via the Central and Via de la Plata route. He is off to San Sebastian and Paris tomorrow. Train strike is on so getting out of Santiago is a little challenging.

Mercado Abastas in Santiago. Truly the most beautiful market I have ever seen. Bought some of the most delicious cheese, even the French would be impressed.
The fish is so fresh, some of it is still alive....
Makes me want to cook.

Walking the cobbled streets of Santiago, you come across cheese shops with the very distinctive tetilla cheese in the window. Many will know the story behind this.

"When the cathedral was being rebuilt in the Gothic style, stone carvers were hired to complete the frieze’s on the arched doors. One statue was a well-endowed woman. This scandalized the pious citizens and there was a public outcry to have the statue’s offending bosom reduced (maybe the first boob job in Spain!). However, after the church officials completed the reduction, other citizens were outraged, claiming that there was no reason to deface the artist’s work. For their rebellion, they started making their famous cheese in the shape of a “tetilla” to celebrate the fact that God loves all people, large and small!"

If there is one restaurant meal in a lifetime to have, this is it. A little place attached to the market with a daily changing menu based on the freshest ingredients on offer. Beats cooking at home!

The food kept on coming as part of the degustation menu and the alvarinho was excellent. Oh dear, this will take a week to walk off.

18.6.2016:

Santiago to Ponte Maceira 18kms.
After three days in Santiago, it was a bit hard to put on the walking shoes and packs for another seven days walking on the the Finesterre coastal route, (first world problem, agreed).

The chilly start gave way to some sunny interludes and we enjoyed the quieter natural paths and less traffic. Finally reached our destination Ponte Maceira, renowned for its ancient Roman bridge and weir and sipped a welcome beer as we waited for our accommodation to pick us up.

We are staying at a country lodge with pretty grounds and swimming pool. Unfortunately our thoughts of lounging by the pool have been thwarted as the place is hosting a first communion and families and tribes of kids have colonised the grounds and facilities, forcing us to the margins, a slat bench and our small bedroom (yes, yes FWP). All the more galling as the sun came out late afternoon and temps hottest of the day. It is now 9.15 and the rowdy family celebrations around the pool and expansive lawn are still going on. Gitti has suggested to the management they could have forewarned us so we could have chosen to stay elsewhere. Especially as we'd chosen the venue for the prospect of some R & R by the pool.

On the plus side, staff are lovely and dinner was nice. Enforced early night on the cards.

19.6.2016:

Ponte Maceira to Vilaserio 18 km.
A beautiful Sunday walk. How a Camino should be. Quiet, contemplative and utterly relaxing.
The day started with a nice surprise when we went to pay the bill at Casa Gasamans. Due to the fact that we were not able to access the pool and most of the garden area, as it was booked by the first communion party, management decided that our dinner was on the house. Very nice indeed and much appreciated. We had a wonderful sleep there. Total silence in the middle of nowhere. It was unreal. By contrast tonight we are staying at an albergue, 16 to a room and chocker. We have decided we can't be stuffed with this at our age. A guy jumped into the women's shower even though I was next in line. The men's one was empty! WTF. He left with the floor awash ignoring the mop. Shrugged his shoulders when I pointed at the men's shower door. A roudy Spanish middle aged group of women exposing most of their voluminous bare flesh down to the deepest clefts sprawling on the lawn on bunk bed sheets, drinking gin and listening to ghastly pop music and a splattering of older men who look like the snoring type. We are in for an interesting night! 

Well I truly lost the plot tonight. The guy who used the women's shower and his girlfriend hogged the plugs on our side of the dorm so we could not charge our phones and kept on walking through our space. I told them to use the plugs on their side as i also needed to charge my phone and had unplugged it to make room for others. I was rather disgruntled and they asked me to mind my language. Then 2 latecomers who had reserved the bunks by the window opposite us arrived and rolled out the smelliet sleeping bags ever and then hung up their unwashed microfiber towels over the edge of the bunk. The rest of us had decided to leave the windows and shutters ajar for fresh air secured by a rubber band and my walking sticks, but the smelly ones decided to close up. I pointed out that we wanted the window open but they said they were cold. I pointed out there were blankets and 6 of us wanted the window open and why reserve beds by the window if you dont like fresh air....They proceeded to dismantle our arrangement. At that point I just snapped. Grabbed my walking sticks, flung the window open, grabbed my pack, mattress and blanket and flung the lot down into the foyer. I was intercepted by the hospitalero who said the place wasn't a hotel, I quite agree, that is why using designated bathrooms, mopping floors after shower so others don't slip, space boundaries and not overriding majority are important.

Anyway, I ended up in a room with a snoring Italian policeman who also bailed out of the dorm, but more diplomatically. He said they were all talking about me upstairs. Oh well let them suffocate in their stench.

Only one more albergue night. We have switched to private rooms for the rest of the trip.

20.6.2016:

Vileserio to Olveiroa 20kms
The day dawned sunny and clear. Not a cloud in the sky and temps reached 30+. Whilst yesterday was mainly shady forest tracks, today was through farming country- some crops and intensive dairying. The baleful moos of cows confined to barns and the sour smell of dairying. A lot of road walking and little shelter in the searing heat. Walked around a charming ancient village 2 minutes from our doorstep. Staying tonight in an albergue, thankfully in a private room. Had dinner tonight with a Kiwi woman and her UK based brother. Very pleasant evening.

 The Hórreo 

If you travel through north eastern Spain the chances are that you will come across strange ancient structures on pillars. These century-old structures are called hórreo and served a vital purpose for the local community. As European civilization spread so did problem solving technology. The hórreo was the answer to a particular issue – how to keep cobs of corn and other crops dry and safe from rodents before they were threshed. Although a simple solution it was one which persevered through two thousand years. Although they have now been superseded, the hórreo of Spain are a reminder that often a good idea can persist for a great deal of time.

21.6.2016:

Olveiroa to Cee 21.6 km.
We were greeted by a warm and hazy morning. Not long before the sun broke through and the temperature soared, only slightly cooled by an occasional slight breeze. 
The route today was stunning. Open country, natural paths, bird song and finally to see the sea at Cee was a special moment. The Atlantic Ocean might have been mistaken for the Mediterranean Sea today, calm and blue and warmed by the sun.
We managed to dodge most of the other walkers most of today although Anna had to negotiate around the flesh bearing group of noisy Spanish women who stayed at the albergue the other night. A German man is trying to avoid me having told me in no uncertain terms he wished to walk alone. He must have felt a bit bad later as he initiated a conversation with us and then came back to take our photo. Bewildering....
We were done in on arrival after nearly 6 hours in blaring sunlight, barely a patch of shade and a taxingly steep descent on loose gravel.
We checked into a lovely little pension with sea views in Cee. Pristine and cheap. As we arrived the " smelly ones" were checking in too! Fortunately we don't have to share facilities with them.
I fear they will hover around us for the next 3 days as they are walking at the same pace as us....my outburst is continuing to haunt me.
Off to wade in the sea and check out the dinner scene.

So what did we see in Cee? A beach, a town square, lots of boats and Fellow pilgrim, Giovani devouring a melon on a wall.

After a look around, we had a forgettable pilgrims' meal of fatty, over-cooked calamari and battered hake. Superb accommodation in a pension with sea/Cee views.

22.6.2016:

Cee to Finisterre 15kms
Lovely walk today, mainly natural tracks through forest, then beautiful coastal views as we neared our destination

In Roman times Finnisterre was believed to be the end of the known world. The name Finisterre, derives from the Latin finis terrae, meaning "end of the earth". It is sometimes said to be the westernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. However, Cabo da Roca in Portugal is about 16.5 kilometres further west and thus the westernmost point of continental Europe (according to Wikipedia!).

Beautiful place but very touristy. We treated ourselves to a lunch of Paella at a local cafe, recommended by the woman who runs the pension we are staying in. Holy moly (pious pilgrim term) it was devine but after attacking it, as best we could, we hardly made a dent in the mound of food. After our huge lunch, washed down with some local wine, we had to have a lie down. Planning to walk the 7km round trip to the lighthouse tonight to watch the sun go down - and to walk off lunch!

Finesterre. Almost sunset. Hardly anybody there. Windswept but magical.

23.6.2016:

Finesterre to Lires 14kms

A day of two halves. A drizzly trudge out of Finesterre, light rain and mist and mostly road underfoot. We felt intensely sorry for the old donkey, who looked extremely depressed and sick. By midday we were walking on natural tracks through pine forest. The sun was doing its best to shine through dense cloud and steam was rising off the wet trees. Finally reached the coast and stunning beach just outside Lires. Stopped for a superb lunch overlooking the beach. Superb meal of pimentos Padron, calamari and tortilla, most of which we took in 'doggie bag' for dinner. Staying in nice lodgings in the village. Very clean and comfortable. Despite a stunning beach, very underdeveloped and non-commercial here. Refreshing.

24.6.2017:

Lires to Muxia 15 km.

Our last day. Unforgettable as a day history was made. The UK referendum in favor of brexit. 
Now we all have to deal with the consequences of what I consider an absurd decision.
Well so be it.
Today was cold and grey, windy and drizzly. I refused to give in to the temptation of putting on my jacket or raincape. It is summer after all. We got to Muxia in record time. 3.5 hours non stop.
Warmed by a mulled wine and a lunch of grilled fish and salad we watched Spanish TV with extensive coverage of the UK referendum outcome and international reaction. Any attempt to try and follow the commentary was drowned in loud voices from the bar downstairs. The usual Spanish parallel dialogue of everyone talking at once and not really listening to a word being said.
Today is a public holiday and Muxia appears grey and desolate with just a few tired pilgrims hovering around the main sites.
We landed in a lovely friendly albergue Da Costa and are resting our somewhat tired selves, not without extending our gratitude to the little bony platforms called feet that have carried us all this way without even a single blister.
On arrival at the albergue we were presented with our Muxiana, our certificate for walking from Santiago to here.

Interesting restaurant kitchen in Spain which would not meet OSH standards down under. The grill suspended over the balcony railing using chains. They were grilling meat above the footpath! In large quantities to serve in the restaurant downstairs.

Art in Muxia. Every picture tells a story!

25.6.2016:

Returned to Santiago on the early morning bus from Muxia. The bus was full to the brim with pilgrims and I kind of felt over the whole scene. Grimy packs, grubby people in need of haircuts and shaves, bedbugs lurking in the hatch of the bus and the packs no doubt. I had another mad moment and refused to store my pack in the hatch with the great unwashed....much to the dismay of the busdriver who hurled abuse at me. I held onto my pack like my life depended on it and parked it firmly on my lap for the duration of the journey. We had had a final drink with a NZ woman and her brother the night before and she reported she had met a woman who had stayed in an albergue a few days ago and ended up overrun with bedbugs. Having been very alert to the potential of these critters getting the better of you I was not taking any chances in the 11th hour.

We returned to Santiago and checked into a lovely little hotel.

The day was wonderfully relaxed, a lunch in a little restaurant frequented by locals which played our favourite songs from our youth, interpreted by a spanish artist. Very nice and mellow and inviting melancholia and a few tears.

In the evening after a vegetarian snack we walked back to our  hotel and were mesmerised by a street artist tenor with a glorious voice singing under one of the arches around the side of the cathedral. There was hardly anyone there. He sang my favourite italian opera songs and at one point just stood in front of me and sang just for me....the whole song. It was magical. What a way to conclude our journey.

We returned to the  hotel and could hear him sing long into the night, enthusiastically applauded by the post dinner crowd.

The next day we took the early morning train to Madrid to spend 3 nights with Anna's daughter and from there we flew back to NZ.